POIRET - The Magnificent
Paul Poiret is one of those names that have marked their time and the history of fashion. After creating his house in 1903, Poiret - along with Madeleine Vionnet -...
Paul Poiret is one of those names that have marked their time and the history of fashion. After creating his house in 1903, Poiret - alongside Madeleine Vionnet - was one of the first designers to get rid of corsets, to create a new high-waisted silhouette reminiscent of the empire style of the early 19th century. A liberator of the female figure, his silhouettes are fluid and dressed, rich and decorated. Became the pioneer of a female emancipation that transcends the ages, Poiret enters the pantheon of fashion by creating the culotte skirt and the hobbled skirt, which are then scandalous.
After the war, the world changes and the house Poiret disappeared little by little. Before reappearing as a whisper in the 2000s, only to be reborn in 2018 in the hands of two women, Anne Chapelle and Yiquing Yin. The first is the head of the House, while the second is the artistic director.
References to travel, sartorial opulence and lightness of silhouettes are still there. The Chinese designer plays with draping, which she builds with precision. Whether on a long dress or a coat that she belts, each fold has been meticulously studied, she even imagines a leather perfecto whose shoulders drape to the pockets. Among the pleated dresses and free volumes, Yiquing Yin puts her sense of precision to work in a new silhouette with accents of suits in refined fabrics. The success is immediate, and we quickly see Naomi Campbell in an asymmetrical evening dress and Rihanna in a metallic dress.
Discover the fall-winter 18 collection of Poiret at Leclaireur Boissy d'Anglas and on Leclaireur.com.