Glenn Martens loves history. His approach to silhouettes and cuts says everything about a passion he often claims.
The Belgian designer at the head of Y/Project and his team make coexist in the same collection baroque inspirations with others much more contemporary. A vest with puffed sleeves, in a very short royal style, with a rugby polo shirt for example, revisited, pleated at the shoulder like an evening dress, transcending the most basic garment into something much more refined. It is that appearances are sometimes deceiving, and this spring/summer 2018 collection plays, for the better, with our first impressions.
Y/Project adds a second degree to clothing, playing with shapes, overlays and the illusions they create, witness this shirt and sweatshirt that both feel like they are being worn and have been carelessly thrown over the shoulders.
For the women, the jeans give a glimpse of skin, very sensual, while for the men the oversized suit pants become baggy. The work on materials, folds, drapes give relief to the silhouette. They play with shadows and light, like the organza which offers an evanescent aspect evoking the sunsets of a Turner painting, while the pearls, sewn on a transparent top, underline all the finesse of this collection.
by Adam Katz Sinding - the 21st
by Alexandre Gaudin