It is this feeling of being at the same time here and already elsewhere, in transit, which is at the origin of this collection Maison Margiela spring-summer 2018. The suit jacket is torn, cut in half, sewn back together, gauze chamoised, slightly oversized and buttoned asymmetrically, alternating the sobriety of gray with a very sensual black transparency. Who needs a wardrobe when you already have a jacket sewn to the back of your little black dress?
The trench coat, at the heart of the collection, ideal for getting through the April drops and the summer monsoons. Converted into a dress, with the sleeves cut off, enhanced with a little gauze, and cut at the waist to form a series of bodices to wear over shirts. Because the Maison Margiela has made a name for itself with its constructed/deconstructed clothes, and its willingness to mix influences and blur boundaries.
We also mix pieces, patterns, a flower top with a tartan skirt. Stamped labels PRIORITY, APPROVED or FIRST CLASS are used as accessories. The bags themselves are designed as padded first class seats, which can be used as cushions.
Since his appointment in 2014, and after the departure of Martin Margiela himself five years ago, Galliano made a point of seducing longtime fans, multiplying the house's refreshingly minimalist eccentricity with a sense of transgression.