Six new designers, including a majority of female designers, are making their arrival in the Leclaireur women's wardrobe. Six styles for as many different desires, six styles for almost as many days in a week. Between the acid pop of Natasha Zinko, the poetic simplicity of JW Anderson, the refined silhouettes of Poiret, the impertinence of Sagittaire A, the subtlety of Sara Lanzi and the clean lines of the Olsen sisters with The Row, place your bets!
The world of JW Anderson is populated by hybrid silhouettes, between feminine strength and masculine softness, praising a poetic simplicity, mixing military inspirations with a Zen spirit. The Northern Irish designer has thus imagined a denim jacket with Brandenburg buttons, and a blue and white striped sweater, for the dreamy sailors who have their eyes turned towards the sky.
Lovers of acid pop, oversized volumes, Natasha Zinko is made for you. It floats like a 2000s perfume in the air, Britney Spears period, Paris Hilton, between "Cry me a river" by Timberlake and "Hung Up" by Madonna. The Ukrainian designer offers a pant with three loops at the waist, a candy pink top with houndstooth pattern, and a suit with tenfold ambitions.
This year, Poiret was reborn from its ashes thanks to two women, Anne Chapelle, CEO of Ann Demeulemeester and Haider Ackermann, and the designer Yiquing Yin, member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. They gave back to the brand its letters of nobility thanks to slender, high-waisted, fluid silhouettes dressed with a "French-style" refinement, as shown by this evening dress highlighting the back of the wearer.
Sagittarius A plays with appearances in a world in reconstruction. The logo of the famous brand of cigarettes in red pack appears on the shirt, as a detour, and the shape, in transparency on the jeans. The shirt is oversized and the bottom of the jeans is cut with a sharp scissor, another way to show that Sagittarius A is right on trend.
Sara Lanzi is in search of a balance, offering pieces for women in tune with their share of masculinity. The cute is abolished, the details are subtle and intelligent, and beauty is revealed beyond appearances. The young Italian designer learned her trade alongside Maurizio Amadei, another Italian designer with a strong sense of independence. Her mentor? Rei Kawakubo, with whom she shares a certain taste for asymmetry, as with this tartan dress and its black belt that gives balance to the whole silhouette.
It is in reference to Savile Row, a London street famous for its suits, that the two sisters Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen founded The Row. With clean silhouettes, as if drawn with a single stroke, details and refined fabrics, The Row seduces with pieces that are all about subtlety. Example with this leather coat or this houndstooth patterned jacket, reinterpreted as a skirt, and its scarf collar giving a feminine touch to the silhouette.